Is Portrait Formatting always best for Portraits?

Image by bikeracer

There are two main ways of holding a camera when taking an image - vertically or horizontally. These two modes are also often referred to as ‘portrait’ and ‘landscape’ formats.

These names give some indication of how people traditionally have formated portraits and landscapes - but is a vertical (or portrait) framing always best for portraits?

Today I’m going to suggest that you explore mixing it up - as part of our breaking the rules of photography series.

Faces and bodies are generally pretty elongated objects and so a vertical (portrait) framing can be quite well suited to them - however using a horizontal framing can also lead to some visually interesting shots also.

I particularly like a couple of horizontal framings when it comes to portraits:

Tightly Cropped Faces - Try zooming right in on the face of your subject in horizontal mode. In doing so you’ll probably find that you lose a little of their chin and perhaps some forehead - but it will give you a shot with a strong presence with the eyes prominently placed. You’ll also find that it leaves little room in your images for distracting backgrounds.

Image by bikeracer

Head and Shoulders - One of the most effective ways of using horizontal framings in informal portraits is when you want to place your subject off center with a nice out of focus background behind them. While you can do this in a vertical formatted shot there is less room to play with.

There’s something about a horizontally formatted portrait that says ‘informality’ to me. Conversely - the vertically formatted shot can come across as a little more formal or ‘posed’. Of course there’s nothing wrong with either formal or informal portraits - but it’s worth doing some experimentation next time you’re photographing people.

Which format do you use most in your portrait photography? Experiment with some different framings next time and see what impact it might have.

5 Situations When Manual Focus is Better than Auto Focus

Digital Cameras present photographers with an ever increasing array of Automatic and Semi Automatic shooting modes. Most of these center around different ways of exposing your shots - however many cameras also give options for different focusing modes (auto, continuous focusing for moving subjects and manual).

It’s no wonder then that many photographers never make use of their camera and lens’ ability to focus manually. In fact this week I spoke with one DSLR owner recently who hadn’t even noticed the manual/auto focus switch on the side of his lens.

Image by dsevilla

When is Manual Focus Better than Auto Focus?

Let me start by saying there is no right or wrong time to use either manual or auto focusing - both can produce great results in almost all circumstances - however there are a few times when you might find it easier to switch to manual focusing:

1. Macro Work

When doing macro photography I almost exclusively switch to manual focusing.

The narrow depth of field in these shots mean that you need to be incredibly precise with focusing and being just a smidgeon out or having your camera choose to focus on the wrong part of your subject can completely ruin a shot.

To use it you’ll also probably want to use a tripod to eliminate any movement of the camera which can make focusing either in manual or auto mode frustrating.

Manual focusing puts the control completely in your hands when shooting in this very precise setting.

Image by maruchan313

2. Low Light

Shooting in dimly lit environments can be difficult for some cameras and lenses when it comes to focusing.

You’ll know when your camera is struggling in Auto mode when every time you go to take a shot the lens will whirl from one end of it’s focusing options to the other and back again before deciding on where to focus.

This can really lengthen your shooting process and make taking quick candid shots quite frustrating.

Switch to manual mode and you can quickly find your focusing point and get the shot you’re after.

3. Portraits

When shooting portraits focus needs to be precise.

The majority of your shots of people will need to have their eyes in perfect focus (although in the example to the left it’s the lips) and so switching to manual focus will give you complete control to enable this to save you from having to line up the focusing points on your camera on the eyes, press halfway down and then frame your shot.

Manual focusing in portrait work helps to ensure the viewer of the image is drawn to the part of the face that you want them to notice.

Image by Djof

4. Shooting Through Glass/Wire Fences

If you’ve ever shot through anything like a window or a mess/wire fence you’ll know how cameras will often get confused on where to focus your shot.

Whether it’s shooting out of a plane window, taking a shot of an image at a museum or photographing animals through fences at the zoo - you might find your camera is confused.

Manual focusing will avoid this completely and allow you to get things just right - focusing upon the subject behind that glass or fence. If you do this in conjunction with a large aperture (which decreases depth of field) and get in close to the fence or glass you might well eliminate it completely from being noticeable in your shot.

Image by Gregory Lee

5. Action Photography

Shooting fast moving subjects (like racing cars, planes, bikes, running animals etc) can be a frustrating experience when shooting with auto focus.

Even the continuous focusing modes can get left behind or confusing if you’re not panning with your subject smoothly.

One way to overcome this is to switch to manual focusing and pre focus on a point that the subject will move through - and shooting at that point. You need to get your timing just right - but you’ll find that it’ll often give better results than relying upon auto focus modes (particularly if you shoot in continuous shooting/burst mode).

Image by fensterbme

Homework

Shooting in manual focus mode is a skill that you need to learn and practice. While you will have more time to get it right when shooting still objects - it can become more difficult when shooting moving subjects - so practice.

This week set aside an hour or two with your camera to shoot only in manual focus mode. Practice on a variety of subjects including some moving ones. While your practice session might not produce great results the skill that you learn will be useful to have.

The Pros and Cons of Using Teleconverters (Extenders) on your DSLR

Have you ever been out and about with your DSLR and wished that the lens that you had fitted could zoom in just a little more? That extra reach can be handy in many situations - but for most of us a new lens is out of our budget - so what’s a photographer to do?

One solution to the problem is to consider getting yourself a teleconverter for your lens. Teleconverters (sometimes called extenders or multipliers) are generally much cheaper than a new lens and can multiply the focal length of your lens by anything from 1.4 times to 2 times.

In this tutorial I’ll explore some of the pros and cons of teleconverters.

Last year I took a trip to the Australian Open Tennis and in preparation for it I treated myself to a Canon 1.4x (L) Teleconverter EF (also called extenders) to use with my 70-200mm f/4 lens.

I’d previously used this lens at similar events and while it produced some wonderful results it left me thirsting for more focal length to get even more closely framed shots of players.

Canon make two teleconverters for DSLRs - the 1.4x and 2x versions (and other manufacturers make similar models - for example Nikon’s 2x, 1.7x and 1.4x). Keep in mind that extenders don’t work with all lenses. You should check with your manufacturer before purchasing to see if you own compatible lenses. I’ll profile a few more teleconverters below.

The Pros of Tele-converters/Extenders

Focal Length - The obvious benefit of using a teleconverter on your camera is that it extends the effective focal length of whatever lens you use it with. A 1.4x converter will give you an extra 40% (extending my 200mm maximum to 280mm) and a 2x converter will give you a 100% boost (effectively giving me a 140-400mm zoom.

The benefits of this extra reach are obvious - it could turn the framing of a tennis player shot from court side from a full body shot to a tightly framed upper body shot which reveals rippling muscles, dripping sweat and the grimace of their face as they strike the ball….

Cost - In comparison to the cost of buying a 400mm lens a teleconverter is a much more economical way to go.

Weight - I don’t know if you’ve seen some of the longer lenses going around but they can be quite huge. Add a 2x extender to a smaller lens instead of getting one of the larger ones and you’ll save your back some hardship.

Minimum Focus Distance - using an extender means you can keep the minimum focus length of your lens. This can be handy when you don’t have a macro lens handy and want to get close in on a subject that isn’t far away. It won’t really compare to a dedicated macro lens - but can be handy.

The Cons of Tele-converters/Extenders

So why wouldn’t you rush out and buy a teleconverter?

There are a couple of costs (in addition to the monetary one) associated with them.

Lens Speed - The first thing to consider when using a teleconverter is the impact it has upon how much light gets into your camera.

Using teleconverters means less light gets in which means your maximum aperture will be decreased. When using a 1.4x converter this means you’ll lose one stop and when using a 2x converter you’ll lose two stops (It was for this reason that I went for a 1.4x teleconverter instead of the 2x one as I didn’t want to slow my lens down any further than f/5.6).

So last year at the tennis, instead of being able to shoot at f/4 with my camera I had a maximum aperture of f/5.6.

I was lucky that the weather was excellent on the day and there was plenty of light so this didn’t really impact my shots too much - however if you’re shooting in low light or indoors you’ll notice the impact of this more.

Camera Shake - As you extend the focal length of a lens - any movement of your camera will become more noticeable.

Using a teleconverter magnifies both your subject and any movement in your camera so you’ll want to think carefully about how to reduce it, either by increasing your shutter speed and/or using a tripod/monopod or some other technique to secure your camera.

Focusing Speed - Another consideration with tele-converters is that they slow down the speed at which your camera will focus. This will vary from lens to lens but is particularly an issue in lower light. Some lower end DSLRs will not be able to use Auto focusing at all with some teleconverters at certain aperture settings (or at all) - so do check your camera’s compatibility before buying. To get around slow focusing switch to manual focus mode and learn how to use it - you’ll be surprised how quickly you get the hang of doing it yourself - it’s a useful skill to have.

Image Degradation - Extenders multiply not only the focal length but also any aberrations of the lens you pair it with. As a result you’ll notice on many lenses that image quality suffers - I’m told this is particularly the case with longer extenders (x2) where sharpness and contrast suffer - particularly when shooting into light (where flare and ghosting can be a problem). Using the best quality lens possible will help keep such degradation to a minimum.

Overall Verdict

Using extenders/tele-converters is a more affordable way to extend your focal length than to purchase a longer lens - however the cost can be to your image quality and camera performance if you are not working with a high quality lens in decent light.

I think they are well worth using if you need the extra reach but wouldn’t use them for every shot. I definitely travel with my 1.4x extender at all times when shooting with my 70-200mm lens.

When using one try not to use them at the maximum aperture that your camera will allow - but stop it down at least one stop and you’ll find the results are significantly better. Also keep in mind that longer focal lengths will leave you with less depth of field to play with - so your focusing needs to be spot on!

Teleconverters vs Cropping

Of course the alternative to using a teleconverter or extender is to take your images with what ever lens you have and then to crop those images later in your post production phase. This is definitely the cheaper option - however in my own testing I’ve seen better results with a teleconverter. You can get away with cropping - but if you want to really blow up your images a lot the converter will be an option to consider.

Teleconverters to Consider

Canon Extender EX 1.4x II - the one I use and love. It’s not cheap when compared to some other manufacturers but does a good job. Works best when you don’t push it to the maximum aperture (pull back a stop and it produces some nice results).

Canon Extender EX 2x II - double your lens focal length with this one. Doesn’t work with all lenses and I’ve heard it can produce slightly ’soft’ results.

Nikon AF-S TC-14E II 1.4x - I have friends with this one and the results they get are excellent. Not compatible with all Nikon lenses - but where it is it’s a great little extender - although not cheap!

Sigma 1.4x EX DG (pictured right) - I hear a lot of positive things about this 1.4x extender. Sigma make them for all the major DSLR manufacturers and they are compatible with many lenses (check first though). It works best with a smaller aperture than wide open but for it’s price it looks like one to consider. You can get it for Canon, Nikon, Pentax and Minolta and Sony lenses.

Sigma 2x EX DG - another sigma option which also gets good results by all reports. Sigma again make it for all the major manufacturers including - Canon, Minolta and Sony, Nikon, Sigma, Pentax lenses.

Which Lens Should I Upgrade My Canon Kit Lens To?

The Three Lenses that are presented by Camera Labs as alternatives for the Canon 18-55mm Kit Lens are:

Canon EF-S 17-85mm f/4-5.6 Image Stabilized USM
Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM
Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L USM Ultra Wide Angle Zoom Lens

One more that you might like to consider if you have the budget and are looking for another great walk around L-series Canon lens is the Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM Lens. It’s not as wide angle as the others above but gives extra zoom length and is on a par with the 17-40mm in terms of quality (in fact they make a nice pair).

Most Popular DSLR Lenses

A couple of weeks ago I asked readers what their favorite DSLR lenses are.

The responses were quite overwhelming with 170 comments left and just under 60 lenses mentioned.

Today I waded through all of the comments left and identified the most popular DSLR lenses mentioned. I’ve arranged them in three categories - Canon (89 votes cast), Nikon (68 votes mentioned) and Other (13 votes). These are the categories because Canon and Nikon lenses were mentioned by most comment leavers where as there was a much smaller representation of all other brands.

Lenses are arranged in order of popularity.

Canon DSLR Lenses

1. Canon EF 24-105mm f/4 L IS USM Lens
2. Canon EF 24-70mm f/2.8L USM Standard Zoom Lens (equal 2nd)
3. Canon EF 50mm f/1.8 Lens (equal 2nd)
4. Canon EF 50mm f1.4 USM Medium Telephoto Lens (equal 2nd)
5. Canon EF 85mm f1.2L Lens
6. Canon EF-S 10-22mm f/3.5-4.5 USM SLR Lens
7. Canon EF 17-40mm f/4L Lens
8. Canon EF 70-200mm f/4 L IS USM Lens
9. Canon EF-S 17-55mm f/2.8 IS USM Lens
10. Canon EF 70-200mm f/2.8L IS USM Telephoto Zoom Lens

Nikon DSLR Lenses


1. Nikon 50mm f/1.8D AF Nikkor Lens
2. Nikon 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 G ED-IF AF-S VR DX Zoom-Nikkor Lens
3. Nikon 70-200mm f/2.8G ED-IF AF-S VR Zoom Nikkor Lens
4. Nikon 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6G ED AF-S DX Nikkor Zoom Lens
5. Nikon 55-200mm f/4-5.6G ED IF AF-S DX VR Zoom Nikkor Lens
6. Nikon 18-70mm f/3.5-4.5G ED IF AF-S DX Nikkor Zoom Lens
7. Nikon 12-24mm f/4G ED IF Autofocus DX Nikkor Zoom Lens
8. Nikon 50mm f/1.4D AF Nikkor Lens
9. Nikon 28-70mm f/2.8D ED-IF AF-S Zoom Nikkor Lens
10. Nikon 85mm f/1.4D AF Nikkor Lens

Other DSLR Lenses

note - Tamron and Sigma lenses come with a variety of mounts, ie most will come in Canon, Nikon and Pentax (etc) versions

1. Tamron Autofocus 28-75mm f2.8 XR Di LD Lens
2. Sigma 70-300mm F/4-5.6 APO DG Macro Lens
3. Sigma 30mm f/1.4 EX DC HSM Lens
4. Sigma 10-20mm f/4-5.6 EX DC HSM Lens
5. Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4.5 DC IF Macro Lens
6. Tamron AF70-300mm F/4-5.6 Di LD Macro Lens

Should you buy a DSLR or Point and Shoot Digital Camera?

“I’m using a compact point and shoot digital camera and i would like to ask it is worth it to upgrade to a DSLR camera? How huge a difference do DSLR cameras make compared to compact point and shoot digital camera?”

Thanks for the question - I’ll attempt to keep my answer brief and not too technical. This is a question that I’m regularly asked, increasingly so as the price of DSLRs have dropped and become much more in the reach of the average digital photographer’s budget.

Before I start this post you might like to check out two posts looking at the Top DSLR Models and Top Point and Shoot Cameras as voted by our readers.

Let me declare up front that I own both a Point and Shoot digital camera (a Fujifilm FinePix F30) and a DSLR (a Canon EOS 5D). I like having both because I do feel they compliment each other and are each suited for different situations. My preference in terms of quality of shots is with the DSLR but for convenience the point and shoot sometimes wins out.

I also want to say up front that the digital camera industry is constantly evolving and changing. The lines between DSLRs and point and shoots are blurring (or at least this seems to be the intention of manufacturers). What I write below unfortunately will have elements of generalizations in it as I classify hundreds of cameras (each with their own distinctive features) into two camps.

Are Megapixels Everything?

Before I get into the Pros and Cons of DSLRs vs Point and Shoot digital cameras I want to address a common misconception that I regularly hear among digital camera owners - that a cameras megapixel rating is the main thing to consider when determining a camera’s quality.

The fact is that megapixels are NOT everything. Despite point and shoot cameras now coming with up to 10 megapixels (Casio released one last month) their quality level is not necessarily has good as a DSLR with only 8 or so.

The main reason for this (and there are many as we’ll see below) is that the image sensor used in point and shoot digital cameras is generally much smaller than the image sensor used in a DSLR (the difference is often as much as 25 times). This means that the pixels on a point and shoot camera have to be much smaller and (without getting too technical) collect fewer photons (ok I lied about the technicalities). The long and short of it is that because of this point and shoot cameras need to work at slower ISO levels which means that they produce ‘noisier’ (or more grainy) shots.

A lot more could be said on sensor size - but trust me, smaller sensors significantly reduce the quality of an image. I’d much rather have a camera with less megapixels and a larger image sensor than the other way around.

This is one factor that needs to be considered when choosing between a DSLR and point and shoot - but let me run through some more:

DSLRs

A quick definition - unfortunately some camera manufacturers in recent months have released cameras with the DSLR label that technically are not. For the purposes of this article I’ll define DSLR’s as cameras that have removable lenses, that have a reflex mirror which allows live optical viewing through the lens taking the image. ie DSLR’s use a mirror that allows you to see the image you’re about to shoot through the view finder - when you take the shot the mirror flips up allowing the image sensor to capture the image.

Some cameras these days are being touted as DSLRs because you have ‘through lens viewing’ but they are not true DSLR’s - (Digital, Single, Lens, Reflex). This does not necessarily make them a bad camera - but in my opinion it there is a distinction between them.

DSLR Strengths

• Image Quality - I’ve already covered this above in my discussion on megapixels and image sensors - but due to the larger size of image sensors in DSLRs which allows for larger pixel sizes - DSLRs are generally able to be used at a faster ISO which will lead to faster shutter speeds and less grain.
• Adaptability - DSLR’s ability to change lenses opens up a world of possibilities for photographers. While my point and shoot has a nice little 3x Optical Zoom (and many these days have longer ones) my DSLR can be fitted with many high quality lenses ranging from wide angle to super long focal lengths depending upon what I’m photographing (and of course my budget). Add to this a large range of other accessories (flashes, filters etc) and a DSLR can be adapted to many different situations. It should be noted that when it comes to lenses that the diversity in quality of lenses is great. Image quality is impacted greatly by the quality of the lens you use.
• Speed - DSLR’s are generally pretty fast pieces of machinery when it comes to things like start up, focussing and shutter lag.
• Optical Viewfinder - due to the reflex mirror DSLR’s are very much a what you see is what you get operation.
• large ISO range - this varies between cameras but generally DSLRs offer a wide array of ISO settings which lends itself to their flexibility in shooting in different conditions.
• Manual Controls - while many point and shoots come with the ability to shoot in manual mode, a DSLR is designed in such a way that it is assumed that the photographer using it will want to control their own settings. While they do come with good auto modes the manual controls are generally built in in such a way that they are at the photographers finger tips as they are shooting.
• Hold it’s value - some argue that a DSLR will hold it’s value longer than a point and shoot. There is probably some truth in this. DSLR models do not get updated quite as often as point and shoot models (which can be updated twice a year at times). The other factor in favor of DSLRs is that the lenses you buy for them are compatible with other camera bodies if you do choose to upgrade later on (as long as you stay with your brand). This means your investment in lenses is not a waste over the years.
• Depth of Field - one of the things I love about my DSLR is the versatility that it gives me in many areas, especially depth of field. I guess this is really an extension of it’s manual controls and ability to use a variety of lenses but a DSLR can give you depth of field that puts everything from forground to background in focus through to nice blurry backgrounds.
• Quality Optics - I hesitate to add this point as there is a large degree of difference in quality between DSLR lenses (and point and shoot cameras are always improving) but in general the lenses that you’ll find on a DSLR are superior to a point and shoot camera. DSLR lenses are larger (more glass can add to the quality) and many of them have many hours of time put into their manufacture (especially when you get into higher end lenses). I strongly advise DSLR buyers to buy the best quality lenses that they can afford. It it’s the difference between a high end lens on a medium range camera or a medium range lens on a high end camera I’d go for quality lenses every time as they add so much to photos.

DSLR Weaknesses

• Price - while they are coming down in price (especially at the lower end) DSLR’s are generally more expensive than point and shoot digital cameras. Also consider that you might want to upgrade your lens (as kit lenses are generally not of a super high quality) or you may wish to add more lenses later and that this adds to the cost of a DSLR.
• Size and Weight - the only reason I take my point and shoot out with me is on those occasions when I don’t want to lug my DSLR (and it’s lenses) around with me. DSLRs are heavy and sizable and when you add a lens or two to your kit bag you can end up with quite the load!
• Maintenance - a factor well worth considering if you’re going to use a DSLR with more than one lens is that every time you change lenses you run the risk of letting dust into your camera. Dust on an image sensor is a real annoyance as it will leave your images looking blotchy. Cleaning your image sensor is not a job for the faint hearted and most recommend that you get it done professionally (which of course costs). This is a problem that is being rectified in many new DSLRs which are being released with self cleaning sensors.
• Noise - DSLRs are generally more noisy to use than point and shoots. This will vary depending upon the lens you use but while point and shoots can be almost silent when taking a shot a DSLR will generally have a ‘clunk’ as the mechanisms inside it do their thing. I personally quite like this sound - but it’s something that is a factor for some.
• Complexity - while DSLRs are designed for manual use this of course means you need to know how to use the tools that they give you. Some friends that have bought DSLRs in the past few months have told me that they were a little overwhelmed at first by the array of settings and features. The learning curve can be quite steep. Having said this - all DSLRs have fully Automatic mode and many have the normal array of semi-auto modes that point and shoot digital cameras have.
• No live LCD - in many DSLRs the only way to frame your shot is via the optical viewfinder. Some photographers prefer to use a camera’s LCD for this task. This is another thing that is changing with more and more new DSLRs having a ‘Live View’ LCD which enables you to frame your shots without looking through the view finder (update: please note that Live View isn’t perfect - check out the comments of NormMonkey below who shares more.

So what DSLR do I recommend?

Let me point you to a recent post here at DPS listing the Top 20 DSLRs as owned by our community members. I am a Canon fan myself but the Nikon DSLRs on the list get great reviews as do the others. Also check out the new Canon EOS 40D that’s just been announced (available now for preorder at Amazon).

Point and Shoots

While some people write off all non DSLR’s as inferior I think they’ve got a lot going for them and would highly recommend them depending upon the level of photography that you engage in, your budget, the things that you’ll want to do with your photos and the subject matter that you will be shooting. You’ll also notice below that I note that the Point and Shoot market options available are improving. Some of the weaknesses I note are being improved by manufacturers lately on some of their models. Here’s some Pros and Cons of point and shoot digital cameras.:

Point and Shoot Digital Camera Strengths

• Size and Weight - to be able to slip a camera in a pocket as you dash out the door to a party is a wonderful thing. These days point and shoot cameras can be slim and light - to the point of not even knowing you’ve got them with you. This is great for parties, travel and all manner of situations. Of course some point and shoots can be quite bulky too (especially some of the super zoom models on the market).
• Quiet Operation - this was the thing I noticed about my new point and shoot the most. Not only didn’t my subjects not notice I’d taken shots of them at times, once or twice it was so quiet that even I didn’t notice I’d taken a shot.
• Auto Mode - the quality of images produced in point and shoots varies greatly, but in general they shoot quite well in auto mode. I guess manufacturers presume that this style of camera will be used in auto mode (or one of the other preset modes) mostly and as a result they generally come pretty well optimized for this type of shooting (as do many DSLRs these days).
• Price - in general point and shoot digital cameras are cheaper. Of course you can go to the top of the range and spend as much as you would on a cheaper DSLR, but most are in a much more affordable price bracket.
• LCD Framing - as I mentioned above, many digital camera users prefer to frame their shots using LCDs. Point and Shoots always come with this ability and some even come with ‘flip out’ screens that enable their users to take shots from different angles and still see what they’re shooting.

Point and Shoot Digital Camera Weaknesses

• Image Quality - point and shoots generally have small image sensors which means that the quality that they produce is generally lower. This is slowly changing in some point and shoots but in comparison to DSLRs they still have a way to go. It’s worth saying however - that if you’re not planning on using your images for major enlargements or in professional applications that the quality of point and shoot cameras can be more than enough for the average user. Manufacturers are making improvements all the time in their technology and even in the last year or two I’ve noticed significant image quality improvements.
• Smaller ISO range - once again this is changing slowly (my point and shoot has the ability to shoot to 1600 ISO) but in general ISO ranges are more limited in point and shoot cameras - this limits them in different shooting conditions.
• Speed - point and shoot digital cameras were always notorious for their slowness, particularly their ’shutter lag’ (the time between pressing the shutter and when the image is taken. This is constantly being improved but the instantaneous feel of many DSLRs is still not there with point and shoots when it comes to shutter lag, start up and even focusing time.
• Reliance upon LCD - most point and shoot digital camera rely almost completely upon their LCD for framing. While some enjoy this others like to use a viewfinder. Most point and shoot cameras have view finders but they are generally so small that they are almost useless. Some models don’t have viewfinders at all (increasingly a trend).
• Manual Controls Limited - many point and shoot cameras do have the ability to play with a full array of manual settings and controls (or at least make it difficult to do so). They often come with ‘aperture priority’ and ’shutter priority’ modes which are great - but quite often the manual controls are hidden in menu systems and are not as accessible as on a DSLR (if they are there at all).
• Less Adaptable - while they are highly portable point and shoot cameras are generally not very adaptable. What you buy when you first get them is what you are stuck with using for years. Some do have lens adapters to give you wider angles or longer zooms but generally most people don’t go for these accessories.

Which Point and Shoot digital cameras do I recommend?

Once again let me point you to the Top 10 Point and Shoot Digital Cameras as used by the DPS community. There are some fantastic cameras in the list including the Canon PowerShot Pro Series S3 IS.

Should You Buy a DSLR or a Point and Shoot Digital Camera?

This is ultimately a question that you need to answer for yourself. My answer is to have both (I’m fortunate to be able to do so) but if I had to choose between one or the other I’d get a DSLR based upon my experience level, the type of photos I take, my desire to use manual settings and the quality of image that I’m after.

If your situation is different to mine however and you want a portable camera that takes good pictures that you’ll mainly use for small prints and emailing that you’ll mainly shoot in auto mode - you’ll probably be quite happy with a cheaper point and shoot.